Plot 1297 Pieta Lane in Masaki was my home away from home in Dar es Salaam ... though it was really Doreen and Fab's comfortable pad before I appeared (and stuck) like a bad rash for weeks on end. Well ... at least I didn't fester!

The flat was my sanctuary after difficult days at the archives ("Sorry, the files you requested are behind piles of boxes") and welcome shelter from the sweltering afternoon heat.

There were enjoyable conversations every evening over ndizi na samaki, pilipili pizza or tasty chapati. Occasionally there would be a managed disagreement over Coca Cola (the equality of distribution and consumption) but ultimately, peace always prevailed.

Ritz the garden dog was unresponsive to my friendly overtures and energetic patting. For the record, every other canine I've encountered has consistently melted like putty at my hands. This one was a tough nut.

By default I developed a better rapport with Harvey, the well-maintained (and behaved) car.